Wonderland Countdown Calendar

Hello friends,

I'm back with another Wonderland project that I created for the fabric YouTube Live.  It was an idea that just came to me and I had to give it a go! It takes a bit of math to work it out, but it really was easy once I figured out the size of everything. I'll try my best to walk you though the steps and hopefully it will make sense to you. 

• I always sew with a 1/2" seam, so all seams are based on that measurement.
• Each pocket is 2 x 2" when finished.  Choose a tag that will fit (#2) or resize to fit the tag you are using. You really can just use the basic concept/idea and make it any size you wish.  
• Pockets could be made larger if you want to add candy or toys.  
• You could also make the calendar without the cotton batting if you want something lighter weight.

STEP1: cut front and back

I cut two pieces of "Tidings Type", 13 1/2 x 24" (you'll need 2/3 yard).  

STEP 2: cut strips

I cut SIX different strips of Wonderland fabric, each 3" x 44".

STEP 3: sew strips

I went to the sewing machine and stitched the strips together, using 1/2" seam allowance.  Iron all seams flat. You will only use about 2/3 of this piece, but it also gives you options when it comes to pattern (this will make sense in just a few more steps).

NOTE: it is important that any directional fabric (like the red text) run horizontal at this stage.

STEP 4: cut strips

Using a rotary cutter, cut five 3" strips of the pieced fabric. I cut a couple extra to be able to have a choice of fabric, since the collaged fabric (called "25th") has a different motif in every strip.

If you are following along, you know there are 6 patterns in each strip, but the calendar only needs 5 pockets per strip...so why did I make you sew 6?  Because I did not want all the strips to be exactly the same as they run down the calendar.  So this is where you get to choose which square to remove from each end.  Yes, you are going to need a seam ripper. 

STEP 5: pattern

Here are the 5 "pocket strips". Right now I do not care how far apart they are, I'm only looking at the patterns.  

Row 1 and 5 are the same, but one is turned around (that why the red directional fabric needs to run up and down - so it can be flipped over and still be "right"). Then I just removed the square that is hanging off.

Row 2 and 3 are the same, but again, one is turned around and one square is removed.

Row 4 - I removed the holly on the right end and replaced it with a collage fabric that I had removed from one of the other strips (just because I wanted to be difficult, lol!).

STEP 6: 

Go back to the ironing board to iron 1/2" hem on each pocket strip.  This is the top hem of the pocket.  You could sew this down but I did not. Make sure you do this one at a time so they go back into the same order.

STEP 7:

Now back to the front fabric to lay out the pockets, hem side up.

NOTE: Can you see my mistake in the photo? in row 4 (third row down from the top), I ironed the hem on the wrong side, so when I added  the pocket strip to the backing, it was upside down.  I know that because the red square is out of place! Of course I did not figure that out till I had sew it on, so I just picked out the seam, re-ironed it on the correct side and sewed it into place again. 

STEP 8:

Using your clear fabric ruler, make a line with a fabric marker for the 1/2" seam. This was nice to have something to follow.

Make another line on the backing fabric, to the left of the strip edge (this will help to space out the pocket strips as you add them to the back).

Should look like this...

You can double check to see if you have a 2" pocket.

STEP 9:

Pin the pocket strip into place along the blue line.

STEP 10:

Then go to your sewing machine and stitch on the 1/2" blue line.

There are 3 1/2" between the blue lines. You could make the marks for all pocket strips using this measurement.

STEP11:

Fold the pocket strip forward and iron flat.

I did add a pin or two to keep it in place while I sewed the other strips.

STEP 12:

Add a second strip above the last on the 3 1/2" blue line, then repeat the steps of marking, pinning, sewing, ironing and pinning to secure...repeated 4 more times.

STEP 13:

Sew the second pocket strip to the backing.

STEP 14:

Now that you are done adding all the pocket strips, go back to the iron and iron flat once again.

STEP 15:

Go back to the machine and stitch between each pocket. This time you will need to backstitch at the top of each pocket.

STEP 16:

Take the panel to the cutting board and square up.

STEP 17:

Add the cotton batting and backing.

I chose to use a temporary adhesive between the top and the cotton batting to keep everything in place as I sew the top to the bottom.  Totally optional.

I also pinned everything together before going back to the machine.

STEP 18:

I sewed right under each pocket strip to bind the layers together.

This is what it looks like so far! Each pocket will be 2 x 2" except for the ones on the edges, they will still be 2 x 2 1/2" because we still have to add the binding.

BINDING

You can go online to see how to make binding (lots of people on YouTube can show you how).  I made very simple binding using 2 1/4" strips of "Leaf Medallion" fabric.  The fabric is only 44" long (at most) so you will have to combine strips at least 2 strips to go around the calendar.  

Cut two, 2 1/4 x 44" strips.

Sew a diagonal line where the two strips com together.

Cut the diagonal line.

Then open and press flat.

For more information on binding anything, I will direct you to YouTube.  It is best to watch someone actually sew the binding (or at least that is what helped me).  I practiced a couple times on a scrap piece until I got the concept and then went to the real thing.  Here is an short video to watch or just type in "how to bind a quilt.

TAGS

As for the tags that go in the pockets - I cut mine using Watercolor Cardstock and the Sizzix Tag Collection die because I did not want a hole at the top of the tag. If you must purchase manilla tags, you will need a #2 tag (3 1/4" x 1 5/8").  

The number stamps are from Stampers Anonymous, called Merchant. One of most used stamp sets because it is timeless.

OPTIONAL:

I also added a pocket on the back of the wall hanging for the tag numbers when not in use.

Well, I hope this epic blog post is helpful in making your own countdown calendar.  It was a fun process to figure out the pattern and it really is doable for anyone with a ruler and a sewing machine.  I added some small metal hangers on the back (Walmart) for hanging but you could clip it or pin it up too.

and

If you missed the live, you can always go back to watch a replay. 

If you do watch the replay, Tim shows the Countdown Calendar at the 29 minute mark.

Now carry on,
paula

"Believe" Count Down Calendar

Hi everyone!  Glad to be back here on the blog with an easy Count Down Calendar for the Tim Holtz Holiday Inspiration series.  Follow along and I'll show you what I made!

Start with the small size Vignette Tray (they come two in a pack - one large one small).  Turn it over and paint the sides and up onto the back with black soot Distress Paint.  Let dry.

Adhere paper from the idea-ology Mini Paper Stash Christmas (8 x 8") with Collage Medium.  The paper is cut smaller than the wood front because I wanted the black edge to create a faux "frame" for the pretty paper.  A brayer ALWAYS helps to smooth out the paper on a hard surface.

I used a stencil from the Stampers Anonymous Mini Set #31 and Distress Grit-Paste to create a great pattern for the background. 

I also wanted to give the Grit-Paste a little shine, so while it was still wet I poured Distress Glitter Dust over the top.  You have to work fast since the paste dries rather quickly!

It leaves a bit of shine over each star which I thought was fun.  Remember to leave it to dry for at least 30 minutes (and do not use a heat tool).

While the Grit-Paste is drying I thought I'd work on the numbers for the count down calendar.  I'm using the Transparent Tiles Christmas for this project.  They come in a pack of 48 pieces - alpha and numeric.  The pack has two sets of numbers, which is perfect since you need two of the number 1 and 2 for a calendar.  The pack also has a star card I thought could used on single digit days (you will see later). 
To turn them gold, I pounced gold Mixative Alcohol Ink over the BACK of each card and let it dry.  Again, do not use a heat tool as it is VERY easy to overheat the plastic card, which in turn will curl up like a Pringle potato chip...and we don't want that to happen!  Just walk away for 10 minutes to let completely them dry!

You may not of seen this great little pack of hardware that was released in the summer.  It is called the Vignette Hardware pack and it's like one stop shopping for the hardware we all need when working with Vignette Boxes or Trays.  The pack comes with screw eyes, hooks, nails, and long screws (long screws are used to convert idea-ology wheels and knobs so they can be used with Vignette Trays and Boxes).

I decided the small hooks would work perfectly for this project.

I placed the numbers on the tray to get the spacing needed, then used a nail to start the hole (I just tapped it a couple times with a small hammer).  I pulled out the nail and inserted the hook, screwing it into place.  Super simple.

 This is how it looks from the side.

To hang the numbers they need to have a hole.  Just mark the center point (easy to do with Tim's ruler) and punch a small hole.  I made sure I kept the hole near the edge since my hooks are small.

I guess you could hang all the numbers on the hooks, but realistically if you are going to count down, I'd rather keep them in dish nearby or in a envelope on the back of the tray.

To build the focal point of the tray, I started with the Quote Chip "Believe", adding it to the bottom of the green Baseboard.  Foam squares were added to the back and it was added to the tray front.

I thought a Small Woodland Tree would be cute in the center of the Baseboard, but before you can add the tree... you need to give it a haircut so it can sit flat against the surface.

Using your fingertip, tap Collage Medium on all the bristles.  Sprinkle Clear Rock Candy over the tree to create faux snow.  Let dry.

My tree needs some ornaments!  I picked the smallest beads from the Baubles pack, coloring them with Mushroom Alcohol ink.  Using a Blending Tool with felt allows you to pounce over the bead to get different tones of brown and thereby creating a great vintage look.  Quite the difference in the before and after!

I like to squirt a little Glossy Accents directly into the tree, then push the bead into the glue.

I also wanted to add some color and texture to the Baseboard so I cut a few pieces using the Festive Greens Thinlit and the new little Sidekick machine.  These are the perfect kind of dies for this machine - thin and small in scale!  I can set the small machine on my work surface, lower the lever that creates suction to my table top and I'm ready to die cut these tiny pieces.  Just that simple.

 I added Clear Rock Candy over the bow and the tips of the berries for a little sparkle.

NOTE: I cut the bow twice and glued it together to give it a bit more weight before adding the Clear Rock Candy.

I used hot glue to add the tree to the Baseboard.  I also tucked a bit of Warm and Natural batting right above the Quote Chip to mimic as snow below the tree.  I added one of my favorite Christmas embellishments, a Fluted Star to the top of the tree (it's really right behind the tree - glued to the Baseboard).

I wiped some red paint onto the Mini Hardware knob and let it dry.  I took out the screw that comes with the knob and replaced it with the longer one from the Hardware pack.   I used a drill to create a hole at the top of the tray and add the knob.

I love the way it turned out!  Definitely a project that could be done in just a few hours once all the supplies are at hand.

I think my favorite part is the way the Transparent Tiles turned out with the gold Alcohol Ink.  The gold really did transform them into something special.

Hope you will give this project a go! 

Carry on,
paula